After quite a bit of work I compiled many of the posts along with a bunch of additional information into download-able .pdf style manuals. (If you need Adobe Reader - download it HERE)

The manuals comes complete with:

1) Schematics for all markers.

2) Safety and Handling

3) A Description of how the markers work

4) How to adjust velocity

5) How to set up and adjust the CCM markers for maximum performance.

6) Cleaning and maintenance of all aspects of the marker.

7) Troubleshooting

8 ) Parts lists

Download the Series 5 Basic and Series 6 Manual

Download the SS-25 and Series 6 Prototype Manual

You can also paste this link into your browser:

http://www.pumpenstein.com/manuals/

If you have any comments or corrections please e-mail them to jmoulenbelt@hotmail.com I will be updating this manual periodically.

TF

The CCM Stock Class Feed:

Parts:

The CCM Stock Class Feed comes in five parts:

The Front Cap: A tapped portion that is ramped and forces the ball from the main tube into the chamber. The tap potion accepts a caphead screw (with an ring) that attaches the cap to The Block.

The Block: The block has two holes in the top and two coordinating countersunk holes in the bottom. The bottom portion is chamfered to accept the body of the SS-25 marker. Once the block is attached to the body the cap can be attached to the block. The block is also made so that it can be reversed on the marker in case the owner likes a rock back feed style.

The Tube: The tube along with the block and the cap, to fit 13 balls. It is threaded on both ends to fit into The Block and the End Cap. It is not slotted to allow you to see how much paint is left in the tube. This tube comes in two lengths. 13 balls and 25 balls - the normal 13 ball tube is exeedingly rare - the 25 ball tube is so rare that I have only seen one - the one I own. Bill from CCM was gracious enough to send this one to me.

The End Cap: The end cap is tapped to accept the Tube and it slotted to accept a sock holder (ball retainer). This ball retainer is the standard used on CCI markers as well.

Attaching the CCM Stock Class Feed:

Using a 5/64th Allen key attach the Block (with the tube and end cap if wanted) to the body of the marker. Once attached use the same 5/64th Allen Key to attach the front cap.

Thoughts:

This item is perhaps the simplest portion of the ss25. There is very little to say. It was expensive to machine and perhaps it over complicated and over engineered in its conception. It never caught on on the pump scene too much (mostly because the SS25 was an open class marker by design and was never made to be efficient or run on 12 grams) and so very few of them exist. They are well made and well executed and only perhaps lacking ball slots in making this a perfect piece for the SS25. The only thing that is left is cosmetics - which seem to be in the eye of the beholder.

I am not a huge fan of its looks but it does not offend. I think it looks better than the CCI Stock Class Feed that is often modified to fit the SS25 - but I don’t think it looks great either. Overall, I will not sell this piece for some time to come but I wonder (as I also have a S6P) how much use it will get.

The CCI Stock Class Feed - Modified by Wevo Paintball.

I picked up a Series 6 Prototype from CCM and wanted to put a stock class feed on it. I also own a SS-25 that could have taken the Wevo Feed but I already have a CCM stock class feed for that. So, I ordered a stock class feed from Wevo in dust black in order to have it match the Series 6 Prototype.

Wevo shipped it right away (along with a few other items) and it came well packed and very quickly.

Construction:

There no additions to the make of the CCI Stock class feed. The only differences are modifications done to the stock class feed once it comes to Wevo. Wevo mills a dove tail on the underside of the plastic feedtube that allows it to attach to the sight rail of the SS25. This milling looks good and fits perfectly to the CCM marker.

Wevo also mills a ball slot into the side of the marker that matches the ball slots that come stock on the CCI feed. Very nice. It looks like CCI should make them stock like this.

To make sure the CCI Stock Class feed fits the Spyder hole pattern on the SS25 Wevo drills a second hole in the top of the feed and counter sinks a hole in the bottom of the feed in order for the second screw.

The machining was very well done and the piece came to me ready to mount on my marker. I ended up trimming off the 15 round feed and making a 12 round feed and then slapped in on my Series 6 Prototype. I used the screws that came with the feed and put it on. It worked perfectly and looks great.

There are no real misses on this piece - it worked perfectly and I had no issues using it or mounting it.

TF

The Door Gunner - Review:

Door Gunner - . 38 and .357 Firearm Mount.

Materials:

Mount - Class Two Soft Anodized (Paintball Marker version has a Delrin Spacer)

Threaded Inserts - Brass

Screws - 8/32 Hex Head

8/32 Hex Key

Cost: 5.95 Plus Shipping

Models Made: CCM makes the Door Gunner in the following calibers: .22, .25, .32, 9mm, 38-357, 40, 10mm, 44 mag, 44 spec, 45 auto, .50, 6mm air soft, and .68 caliber paintball.

I was talking to Bill, the owner of CCM / DPM and he told me about a new / old product that he has. He has made gun mounts for the Firearm industry for many years and now he has modified these mounts for paintball markers. I am not a collector - but I certainly have a few markers I put on the wall between play dates. Bill sent me a few to check out - they came quickly USPS in a nice white box and each mount came in its own baggie.

After unpacking the bag I followed the instructions that came with the kit. The instructions recommended a 1/4 inch pegboard but I already had 3/8th’s, it did not seem to matter.

Installing the Door Gunner:

1) Take a flathead screw driver and screw in the Brass Threaded Inserts flush with the pegboard.

These inserts are thicker than the pegboard and must have pegboard installed with spacers to accommodate this.

2) Press and align the mounts against the board and use the button heads to secure the mount to the board.

3) This firmly affixes the mount to the board. Simply slide on the marker you want to mount and step back.

4) For heavier markers you may have to change the mount to be a little askew to compensate for this. Simply loosen the screws - tip the mount up - and tighten the mount. Most of my markers, however, were simply parallel mounted and had no issues.

I mounted few markers and realized how simple the kit really is. It is a little freaky at first mounting your markers like this, for some reason I wanted to have two affixing points, but after a few days of watching this hang on the board with no issue - I got used to the kit - and really started appreciated the simplicity of the kit.

Testing:

Then I started to beat up this kit and check out what it could handle. I ripped a small portion of peg board - mounted it to my work bench. I put a barrel on this kit and hung a fifteen pound weight from it. This mount did not budge. So - I added a lot of my weight to it. I pushed down on this barrel to the point that the barrel bent - the way I mounted the peg board was tweaked and the pegboard started ripping apart. I would assume I was putting more than 50 pounds of pressure (probably a lot more) on this mount and this barrel and could not find any damage done to the marker mount. In other words, the pegboard will fail before the marker mount will.

The picture below was taken after I had beaten on this mount - it looks bent a little - but the heaviest marker I have (nearly 12 pounds) looks parallel and great with this mount.

Pros:

Easy to mount. Strong. Looks good. Doesn’t mar the barrel or anno. Makes the board look ‘clean’.

Cons:

Cost more than normal peg board mounts. Harder to make adjustments than simple slip on peg board mounts.

Final Thoughts:

After laying out my board and taking advantage of these mounts I am finding that the only problems I have with these mounts is that I want more of them. Bill sent two - and I want to get some more to make my board look cleaner. Some thought is needed to lay out your board simply because they are more difficult to move - but with a little thought - I could see only needing to move these when you make a marker change.

If you have a collection - I would take a look at these mounts to make your board look clean, organized, and hot.

Mafia Stylz’ Speed Cap:

Team Pumpenstein used Speedfeeds on their hoppers at the 2006 NSA Nationals. It seemed the easiest way to reload our hoppers in the format that was used (all reloads had to be done with 10 round tubes). I wrote a review and how - to HERE and thought that I had found the solution to quickly reloading our hoppers. Then we found the Sportshot hopper (which lowered our hopper profiles) modified it and most of the team runs these hoppers now. The problem is that the speedfeed we were using on our previous hoppers on the Sportshot look silly and are unnecessarily large. We took the Speedfeed’s off our hoppers and frankly forgot about it.

Then I saw an ad for a new type of Speedfeed by Mafia Stylz that seemed to be perfect for the Sportshot. It was shorter and seemed to fit the Sportshot - I went to Mafia Stylz website (14.95 plus shipping - paypal’d) and ordered one. In a few days a padded envelope came in the mail with a custom printed label. Inside the package was a printed hang tag with a plastic package attached. The hang tag had directions - the presentation was very professional.

Putting it on the Sport Shot:

Just like my previous article putting a Speed Feed on a SportShot - the collar needed to be modified to fit. I took some measurements and grabbed my Dremel Tool (with fine grit sander barrel) and went to work. A few minutes later, I had it done.

The pictures below shows the before and after. The blue Speed Cap is unmodified and the black one has been modified.

Speed Cap - Front (.300 at the Apex of the crescent in the front - this means taking off .100 in in the front)

Speed Cap - Rear (.360 at the apex of the crescent in the rear - this means taking off .40 in in the rear.)

It really was simple and a little patience makes for an easy modification. Simply cut two crescents out of the cap, one slightly deeper in the front than the one in rear and snap it on.

Preparing the Speed Cap:

The fingers of the Speed Cap come a little stiff. I tested it at this point and the paint from a 80 round tube (Pumpenstein cuts their own length tubes) would not allow the paint to pour in. I sat for just a few minutes and flexed these fingers to loosen them up. I tested another pod, flexed them some more - rinse and repeat. In just a little while I had it right. I could quickly slam a pod into the hopper and all of the paint would pour right in without much an issue (I always had a few balls left - but this seems normal with Speed Feeds - something has to be sacrificed for speed. However, because the paint of a 10 round tube is inserted past the fingers of the Speed Cap - nothing spills.

The Speed Cap sits slightly lower (0.200) than the lid that comes with the Sportshot.

The Speed Cap on the Field:

The first thing I noticed with this Speed Cap is that is maked the hopper louder when you pump and move. Ofcourse, this is to be expected as you are letting the sound escape from the top of the hopper. I didn’t notice this during play, when the adrenaline was pumping, and I don’t think it would ever cost me a game - but it was louder.

I played the entire day with the Speed Cap on my hopper and had no issues. I could reload my hopper without taking my eyes off my target and I could hold my marker on my target and put one ball on him if he looked at me while I was reloading. I simply pulled out a pod, popped the lid, and no-look slammed it on my hopper. A few balls spilled out (if I missed) but almost all of them went into the hopper. I think with a little working in, they would all slide right in with no issue.

About 1/2 way through the day I got hit on my Speed Cap (directly on the front of one of the fingers) - it was about 50 feet away (a blooper over a bunker). I cleaned off the hit and played the rest of the day - without any issue. When I got home I popped off the Speed Cap to do a better cleaning of my marker and hopper when I noticed one of the fingers was broken where the ball had hit it earlier in the day. I remembered seeing a Warranty Section on the Mafia Stylz website and checked it out. It said, I thought, that this was covered so I contacted the maker via e-mail.

The damaged Speed Cap using an Allen Key to show the damage - the Allen Key is propping up the finger - in reality the damage was not noticeable until closely inspected.

He said that he has had a few of these complaints but he feels they are about 3 in 3,000 sales and he would certainly replace the damaged piece at no charge - I simply needed to get back to him with the color I wanted. I e-mailed him the next day to tell him I wanted black and he e-mailed me back and said that he didn’t want to wait so he sent me one of each color - no charge. Three days later all three came. I was VERY pleased with this customer service. I understand that there can be some lemons and that a simple injection molding error can cause weakness in a part.

Day Two:

I played all day at a Pumpenstein practice with three of us running Speed Caps. Beaux and I both took a few hit to our Speed Caps. Beaux took a hit that even flipped the Speed Cap off his hopper. Both us had hits that matched the spot I was hit on the first day at closer range. The Speed Cap held up and worked fine.

I have come to love this thing. I had three times today where I was in close quarters battles or three on ones where the Speed Cap came in very handy. I reloaded quickly and was able to no look fill with my marker up. Seconds mattered at these times and I was happy to have the Speed Cap.

Below is a video by Mafia Stylz showing the Speed Cap in action:

TF

One day I was at Tanks Katy Paintball and I realized I had forgotten my pack. A ref let me borrow his pack. I loved it. I asked where he got it and found that it was a cheapy bought at Gander Mountain. This pack was called a Stranj Extreme pack. It was a 3+2 pack and worked perfectly for my small pods - so I set out to find one.

I found one, pictured above, on e-bay for 13 dollars. I was told that these packs can normally found for about twenty bucks at larger stores. A few weeks later I had it in my hands.

Initial Thoughts:

The pack is of a very similar design than most of the packs of this ilk. It is a weight lifting belt style pack with a rubber portion sewed in the back to prevent the pack from creeping. The pack has two tabs with velcro to tighten the pack and it has three loops to hold pods tight to your back. In addition to these loops are two loops that hold pods in between the three loops for additional pods if you need them.

I use 80 round pods generally and I can slip three of these pods into the pack and leave the two additional loops empty. This pack is not the most durable feeling, but for the price, I can afford to buy three of these packs at the same price I can buy an expensive pack of the same design, the durability didn’t worry me. The pack just seemed made of lighter material in nearly all places. The belt felt thinner, the rubber a little less durable, and so on. It did feel good on my body and the pods felt very tight. A positive side effect of this thinner material was that the pack was light and allowed me to bend and move immediately. I like the feel of this pack.

On the Field:

I played at TKP with the Stranj pack in poor conditions. The ground was sloppy and the field was wet. We had a great practice but this would certainly challenge all of my gear, including my pack. I fell a few times, slid on my pack, and generally put it through its paces. The harness never slipped, never lost a pod, and felt great all day. I really enjoyed the lightness of the pack and the lack of frills. I slid my lanyard squeegee in one of the extra loops and it even held perfectly. Overall I was very pleased with this pack.

After Action Report:

When I got home - I pulled this filthy pack out of my gear back - strapped it back together and tossed it in the washer. This was the second time I have washed this pack and I must say that it has held up wonderfully. Again, I think it will break down faster than more expensive packs, but again, for the price I don’t mind this.

This little cheapy might just become my regular pack. Plus with all the mesh and neato logo’s - I look all agg and stuff.

TF

How to put a Pump Kit on your Trilogy:

This article will show you step by step how to install a pump kit on your Trilogy. I am using the PMP Pump kit and I have replicated the instructions sent from PMP with only a few changes.

Tools and Materials Needed:

1) 7/16th Box wrench or Crescent Wrench.

2) Needle Nose Pliers.

3) 1/8th inch Allen Key

4) 3/16th deep well socket and wrench.

5) Marker Oil.

Step By Step Installation:

1. Remove the air source and make sure the marker is entirely de-gassed.
2. Remove the barrel.
3. Using a 1/8th allen wrench, remove the beavertail.

4. Unscrew the cocking rod; remove the pull pin, and bolt.

5. Remove back block by unscrewing it from the pump arm.

6. Remove the three-way hoses from the regulator, ram and three- way. Take care not to damage any of the hoses when removing them. Use a pair of needle nose pliers, twist them once you have grasped the hose, and then pull straight away from the barb.

7. Unscrew the low pressure regulator, while carefully watching for the washer and spring inside, they may fall out. You don’t need the washer - but you do need the spring and valve seat. Take care to see what order these are in.

8. Using a small wrench, turn the ram clockwise (if viewed from the front) approximately ¼ turn, to allow for more room to remove the ram 3-way barb.

9. Using a small crescent wrench or a 3/16th socket, unscrew the side ram barb, so that the ram can be removed.

10. Using a wrench, loosen the ram remove it. When using a wrench on your paintball marker care must be taken not to damage the finish.

11. Making sure that the internals are correctly in place, put a small drop of gun oil on the o-ring and threads if the pump guide. Then thread the PMP Pump Guide into the regulator hole of the marker. Insert a large allen wrench or screwdriver shaft (I tend to use the cocking rod - as pictured) through the hole in the pump guide to help you tighten it. DO NOT over tighten, this may permanently damage your marker!

12. Take off the frame screws in order to slide the 3 way rod out of the body. This step is not necessary - but it makes the marker look cleaner.

13. Insert the pump handle over the pump guide, making sure that the pump arm passes through the ram fitting hole on the marker.
14. Thread the back block onto the pump arm and insert the bolt, push pin, and cocking rod.

15. Reinstall the beavertail.
16. Pump the marker and dry fire it to make sure the action is not binding.
17. Reinstall your air source and check for leaks.
18. Chronograph your marker and make certain your velocity is within safe limits (check your local field for velocity requirements).

This is it - the conversion is easy and only takes a minimal knowledge of tools. This conversion took me about 15 minutes. Good luck,

TF

Smokin’ Everlast Pants - Review:

Materials:

Main material of the pants: Polyester.

Knee of the pants: Cordura.

Waist closure: Velcro.

Ankle Closure: Round Elastic with Plastic Adjustable Closures.

Knee Pads: High density foam.

Sizes:

Small: 26-30

Medium: 30-36 (snug fit at 36″)

Large: 36-40

XL: 40-44

XXL: 44-48

XXXL: 48-54

Features:

Font pockets, one cargo pocket for a battle swab on the left side, XKC^tm (Xternal Knee Compartments) for removebale knee pads, adjustable ankle closures, and belt loops.

Initial Impressions:

I used to play for Team Smoke when Pat and Milt owned Smokin’ paintball. The company has since been purchased and the new owner, Tony, has no affiliation with me or with Pumpenstein.

I recieved a pair of black on black Everlast pants from Tony at Smokin’ paintball. In fact, Tony sent a pair to me to try with a Credit Card retainer (in case they did not fit) and when they did fit I bought them. The shipping was fast and Tony was a pleasure to work with.

The Everlast pants are a very utilitarian in design. There are no frills and no additions and thus are not much to look at. Pants by other manufacturers have many little flourishes and additions that make them stylish. The Everlast pants have none of these additions and the black on black version look sort of like slacks with knee pads - the polyester material don’t help with this look. When worn they are plain and simple.

With that said, the construction is strong, the pant is comfortable, the material is roomy and the legs are long. I ordered an XL and used the really cool waist closure to adjust the pants to fit me. As a tall player (6′5″) I was very happy to see that the pants had ample length in the leg. The stitching seemed strong but was only single stiching in the wear points. I was hoping the knees would have double stitching. The knee pads were made from high density foam and cut in the back to make them more comfortable when kneeling.

The pocket was great to have on the left side and once a battle swab was installed it was in a perfect spot to employ. However, it is biased toward righties by only having it on the left and for players that like to carry multiple battle swabs - one pocket seemed a bit minimalistic.

The ankle closures are great - but Smokin’ only puts a plastic adjustable holder on it and does not tie a knot or secure this holder from sliding off. I would like to see them sew these ankle closures into the pant and not allow them to come loose.

Overall, I would say that the execution was about an 8 out of 10. They were very comfortable to wear and worked very well.

On The Field:

The pants were comfortable once one was playing - however the knee pads left the pants being very rigid at the knee’s. They look like little pieces of plywood at the knees and leave you walking a little stiff legged. The knee pads, however, were great to employ - they sit at the right spot in the knee and when sliding they protect you. I have never had a problem with the knee pad being out of place when I slide.

I got a few comments from the image conscious crowd about how plain and ugly the pants were. I could care less about the looks overall, but I was left thinking that Smokin’ could do a little to spruce up their pants with some flourishes and details. I do think, though, that I have the plainest pants of their selection and think that the Pattern and Colored pants looks a little better. Smokin’ now offers Green, Black, Tiger Stripe, ACI, and MARPAT designs. I think these break up the expanse of black and look a little cooler.

Sliding, running, and playing were not a problem and the pants were very comfortable. When I was done for the day I took the knee pads out and tossed them in the wash - they came out looking new with very little wear. I even left the knee pads in a few times when washing and could not really see a difference. Everything was tough and ready for another day of play.

Longevity:

I am very hard on pants - in particular the left knee due to a baseball slide that I almost always employ. I wish I were a more versitile slider - I am just not. Anyway, the Everlast pants are in great shape after nearly six months of play. The Cordura knees are holding up very well - they feel a little thinner - but there are no frays or tears. The only concern I have is in the stiching. It is starting to come loose and I think a double stitch, perhaps only in the knees, would really serve these pants well. The main body of the pant literally look like the day I bought them - they are perfect. The logo’s are unstained and the pant looks very good. The Everlast pants have been my pant of choice for the last six months and will continue to be for some time - These are one of the strongest and best wearing pants I have ever had - period.

One of the ankle closure plastic pieces has been lost and I had to replace it. This is nothing big - but a little more thinking in implementation by Smokin’ would prevent this.

Final Comments:

I would give the Everlast pants a 9 out of 10. The company was great to work with, the shipping was fast, the pants are pretty nice overall. They loose a point for being plain and spartan - however, if you are into this type of product - I am sure you will not be dissapointed with the Everlast Pants from Smokin’ Paintball.
TF

This article will be written to explore what upgrades a person might perform on a standard stock Autococker turned pump. I purchased a 04 Prostock for a Comprehensive Pump Kit Review that I have been performing and I turned it into a pump.

WGP Prostock as I purchased it.

WGP Prostock with Vendetta Economy Kit Installed.

As I was performing these reviews I realized many shortcomings of the Prostock that might be elevated through upgrades. I decided to acquire some of these upgrades in order to review them to see if they were worthwhile or not. Below I will list the upgrades I explored and I will state my positions on whether they are worth it or not.

Possible Upgrade #1 - .45 Grip:

The Prostock comes stock with a two finger trigger. This is great when the pneumatics are installed (and you might want to keep it if you ever reconvert your Prostock into a ‘cocker) but lacks a lot when you pump the marker. This is because you loose your middle finger on the grip of the marker to stabilize the marker when you pump it. It makes for a shakier platform and frankly the two finger grips are unnecessary.

To solve these shortcoming a simple .45 grip can be found for relatively cheap on line. I found a stock WGP .45 grip that a friend had and he donated it to me for the purposes of this review. The .45 grip, once set up properly made the use of the Prostock Pump a much more comfortable thing to use. It also made pumping and shooting the marker in rapid fire much more accurate.

One cool thing about this upgrade is that you can buy a frame that does not have grips installed because you can rob the grips off the double trigger frame. They not only will work but I find them to be very comfortable.

You can find .45 frames by various manufacturers on line in a myriad of places. I also aquired a Benchmark Frame, a Dye Slider Frame, an ANS Quickfire Frame, A Freeflow Frame, as well as a few others that I could not identify. These all basically worked the same as the WGP in pump configuration. There is a marked difference between these frames when used on a ‘cocker - but as a pump - almost any slider frame is about the same.

Above - Free Flow .45 Frame. Below - Dye .45 Frame

Difficulty Rating of Upgrade:

I would rate this as a 3 out of 10 on the difficulty scale. You simply need to remove the two screws on the double Trigger Grip Frame and put two screws back in when installing the frame.

Note: You will need one different screw when changing from the double trigger hinge frame to the slider frame. The screw that secures the front of the frame will need to be acquired in order to install this frame.

The tricky part, but not too much so, is setting the lug of the marker to match the firing point of the new frame. Also, the trigger frame itself has a few set screws that can be adjusted to make the frame the smoothest and shortest it can be. This can take trial and error, but you really can’t break anything - so tinker and figure it out.

Cost of Upgrade:

Between 15 and 45 dollars depending on what frame you buy. The cheapest being a stock WGP frame and the most expensive most likely being a rarer Dye single trigger Hinge - which can go for 75 dollars or so.

Is it worth it?:

Absolutely! This is one of the upgrades that is a ‘must do’. Sure you can use the double trigger hinge and it will work fine - but a small cost (or if you are vigilant - maybe even a donation) will get you a lot.

Possible Upgrade #2 - An After Market Barrel:

The stock WGP barrel is a 12 inch basic barrel. It works fine - but frankly leaves a lot to be desired. You can use this barrel just fine - but we are talking about upgrades here - so I got together a collection of aftermarket barrels (Deadly Wind with Freak inserts, CCM Barrel kit, Bob Long Barrel Kit, Empire Kit, and a Deadly Wind Fibur Null Barrel) All of these barrels performed better than the stock barrel. A longer barrel was easier to point and aim for me and the increased accuracy was evident. You can certainly use the stock barrel - but every barrel I put on this marker was much more accurate and some were even more efficient.

One big advantage to a barrel kit is that you can size your barrel to the paint you are shooting. I will not go into the particular barrels, and barrel kits - because I think this is up to the end user as to what they are looking for in a barrel. I have found that nearly all after market barrel kits perform about the same. Borrow other peoples barrels, figure out what you like, and then buy what you are in the market for.

Difficulty Rating of Upgrade:

1 out of 10. Um… you unscrew the old barrel and put the new one on. If you cannot do this, stop reading this article - you can’t handle the rest of the upgrades - and you probably have your .45 frame on backwards.

Cost of Upgrade:

Between 35 and 150 dollars depending on the barrel or barrel kit. The cheapest way to do this is to keep any eye out for a selection of different sized bore barrels. I found an Empire three bore two front kit for 35 dollars locally and was very happy with it. A full kit can be had for a little more - but a three bore kit would serve most of your paintball days well.

Is it Worth It?

Yes. I haven’t shot a stock barrel on any marker besides the CCI in a long time and been happy. However, the Bob Long LongShot is a good barrel but can only be found in one size. I would find at least three bore sizes and the length you are comfortable with.
Possible Upgrade #3 - Adjustable Regulator:

I have spoken a lot, when setting up other markers, that you will want to sweet spot the regulator for maximum efficiency. A tutorial on how to do this can be seen here. The question I asked myself is whether this was necessary on the Prostock Pump. I took various regs that I already had (CCM, WGP Ergo, Bob Long Torpedo, and CP) and tried them on the Prostock Pump. All of them performed the same for the Pump. They allowed me to set the Prostock at it’s most efficient point very easily.

From Left to Right: Older Stock WGP, WGP Ergo Reg, WGP Prostock Reg, New Bob Long, Older Bob Long Torpedo, Newer Bob Long Torpedo, CCM Regulator.

However, I found that the sweetspot of the WGP prostock was about 300 - 325 psi and the stock regulator that came with the Prostock was set at 325. Furthermore, the Prostock regulator is adjustable itself. You have to take off the bottom portion of the regulator (using the wrench flats) and use a flat head screwdriver - but you can adjust the reg to the spot desired). It is a bit of a pain to do so - but you shouldn’t need to do this very often (in fact, once I have set my regs on my CCM markers - I don’t touch them).

Difficulty Rating of Upgrade:

2 out of 10. The reg simply screws off and the new reg screws on. The only hard part is replacing the connections to the regulator and sweetspotting it.

Cost of Upgrade:

Between 15 to 100 dollars - again depending on the regulator. An WGP Ergo reg can be found very cheaply on line (especially if it is used - but working) but you can spend up to over 100 dollars on regs like the PPS Stabilizer and the AKA Sidewinder. I would go with an inexpensive working reg. For a pump - you don’t need lightning fast recharge rate and lesser performing regs work just fine.

Is it worth it?:

Possibly. If you are going to change your internals (see below) I would recommend having an adjustable regulator or at least access to an adjustable regulator. You could set up your marker, discern what pressure your marker needs, and then set your Prostock reg to that point. I would be more hassle, but you can do it.

Possible Upgrade #4 - Delrin Bolt:

The stock bolt is made from Aluminum and has two tightly fitting o-rings on it. Again, this is fine for anyone that just wants to shoot a Prostock Pump but I wanted to test out some Delrin bolts to see if they improved performance. CCM was gracious enough to send a S-6 Delrin bolt to test for this application. I also acquired a WGP delrin bolt, a Shocktech Supa-Fly bolt, and an unnamed Delrin bolt that was exactly like the stock bolt, but made from Delrin.

From Left: Stock WGP Bolt, CCM Delrin Bolt, WGP NightKast Delrin Bolt.

To test a change in bolts I got a second 04 WGP Prostock and set it up exactly the same - same internals, same regulator, pump kit (in this case a pair of CCM Economy Kit’s) - I even went so far as to chronoing them the same and setting the same input pressures. I then switched out only the bolt. I compared performance and tested the feel of the pump stroke.
The CCM and Supa-fly bolt made a great improvement in the pump stroke of the marker. I noticed immediately that the pump was smoother and more even than with the stock bolt. Delrin bolts are generally lighter than their stock counterparts - for instance - the CCM bolt was over one ounce lighter than the stock. This doesn’t seem like much, but when you move that one ounce 500 times in a day’s worth of play - one ounce can mean a lot to speed and reciprocal mass (leading to a steadier string of shots). This is most likely due to the lack of o-rings because when I put in the other two bolts that had similar o-rings to the stock - they essentially felt the same.

There are, however, efficiency differences.  Over the Chrono - simply replacing the delrin bolt with a stock bolt got a net of 10 to 15 FPS.  I don’t think this matters a lot for those using a pump - but it is about 5% difference.
Note: The delrin bolts will mar a lot more easily than the stock bolt. This is easily remidied by sanding out these burs and marks with very fine sand paper (1000 grit or better) periodically.
Difficulty Rating of Upgrade:

1 out of 10. This is similar to the barrel. Take out the old bolt and put the new one in. Easy as a girl I knew in highschool… boy do I miss her.

Cost of Upgrade:

10 to 50 dollars. A used Delrin bolt can be had, like I found, for about 10 dollars. I picked up a used CCM J2 bolt for 20 and the Chipley all delrin bolt runs about 40. CCM also made a half delrin bolt and half aluminum (much like the Supafly) and those can be found for about 15 or 20 dollars.

Is it worth it?

I would say yes. A good smooth bolt can make the most difference in a pump stroke of a marker. The only upgrade that makes as much or a little less difference is respringing or updating your internals. A good delrin bolt, found lightly used, can have a LOT of bang for your buck.

Possible Upgrade #5 - New Internals:

Over the years Wgp has really improved their stock internals. They are really well done these days and balance out all of the factors that the Prostock might encounter, a new user, C02 or Compressed Air, Pump or ‘Cocker and so on. I like the stock internals - but they are sprung rather heavily. You will do fine to leave the stock internals alone - but in the spirit of possible upgrades I wanted to check out this option.

WGP Stock Internals

Yet again CCM came through and donated a set of internals for this test. I really cannot say enough about the graciousness of Bill at CCM. Melissa has been awesome as well.
Again, I used my pair of Prostocks and I set up both identically, as above, and only switched out the internals. In this case, I sweet spotted both markers regulators and chrono’d them the same. I then tested performance, pump stroke, and efficiency.

CCM Internal Kit

The performance was almost identical - in that when you pulled the trigger - the paint seemed to shoot the same out of both markers. This does not surprise me - the valve really is just a hole with a pin through it - and in the case of the CCM valve - it is nearly identical in hole and pin size compared to the WGP valve.

The pump stroke was markedly different. CCM springs their internals much lighter and uses a slightly heavier hammer (about .2 ounces) to create the same force on the valve. CCM’s internals also come with better polishing on the hammer, and lug thus making the pump stroke even smoother. To be fair, I polished the internals of the WGP valve and could still see a large difference in the pump stroke. I could also feel a difference in the trigger. The lug, being better polished and machined made for a smoother release of the sear and thus a smoother trigger pull. I spent some time with sandpaper and the polishing wheel and could replicate this smoothness with the stock WGP hammer and lug - but out of the box the CCM was smoother.

As far as efficiency - I could only estimate how efficient the different markers were. They were both nearly as efficient as far as I could tell, in that they were very efficient. I want to run dome further tests on this portion and I will be updating it soon. Both valves run at nearly the same input pressure - the CCM at about 290 to 300 psi input and the WGP 300 to 325 psi input. I would advise turning your prostock regulator down to 300 psi output and leaving it if you are putting in a set of CCM internals.
Difficulty Rating of Upgrade:

6 out of 10. Swapping out a valve takes a little moxie and a special tool. (You can see how to do this on a CCM S5B here.) However, it is not a difficult thing to do once you have done it (if that makes any sense).

Cost of Upgrade:

CCM’s internals can be had for about 50 - 60 dollars and might be too large of an expense for the return.
Is it worth it?:

I like to have a very smooth pump stroke - so I think it is worth it. My advice would be to first play with the stock internals, then switch out the bolt. If you are happy with the pump stroke - leave it. If you want a smoother pump stroke - buy a new internals kit.

Now - there are other internals out there that can be had for testing and will make your pump stroke smoother. However, none of these are in current production that I know of. Also, there are one that I can think of that come complete (a full set of springs, valve retention nut, hammer, valve, and valve pin). These kits require re-springing and a lot of testing. This goes beyond many peoples experience level and almost must be seen as a modification as opposed to an upgrade - so I will leave that for another time. I liked the CCM kit for this test because it was a drop in kit. Please surf around the internet for other options.

A decent option would be a Shocktech Phat Hammer, 3:16 valve, and a set of Maddman springs. However, this would be about the cost of a CCM kit or more.

Possible Upgrade #7: An Auto-Trigger:

The Auto-Trigger for those that are unaccustomed is a lever that attaches to the grip frame and the pump arm that allows the trigger to be held down and the marker pumped - firing the marker at the end of every pump cycle. The marker must be ‘timed’ so that the marker fires at the end of the pump cycle and not in the middle for maximum efficiency but once this timing is not any harder than adjusting the lug on the hammer (see above).

CCM .45 Frame with Auto Trigger

The Prostock, being set up as an auto-cocker does not come with any sort of Auto-Trigger nor is it really capable of setting up with an auto-trigger. A .45 slider frame can be modified to accept an auto-trigger - but again - this goes well beyond the knowledge of most players. The only real option that is in current production is a CCM Auto-Trigger Kit. This kit comes with a pump, .45 or 86 degree grip frame, and auto trigger cam and a tapped pump rod. It is a drop in kit that does not require any modification to the marker itself to use.

I had this set at hand in the garage and installed it on the Prostock. The pump stroke was much smoother and less binding than the economy kit and the auto-trigger was a nice addition to my pump. An Auto-Trigger allows those that need additional firepower to put out a few more balls per second - and I use mine from time to time in a game. I generally shoot a lane off the break using my auto-trigger and from time to time when I am moving or trying to prevent a move I will use my auto-trigger.

Difficulty Rating of this Upgrade:
5 out of 10. The pump must be replaced, as well as the grip frame, and the lug must be adjusted to time the pump stroke.

Is it worth it?:

At 180 dollars or so I don’t think a Prostock justifies a full Auto Trigger kit. I think if you are going to spend the money on a Prostock and you like pump enough to make this large of a cash outlay - you should sell your Prostock and buy a new marker that has an auto-trigger installed. There are many to choose from including Palmer’s Markers, Phantoms, CCM’s, and many others.

However, if you wanted to buy a former ‘cocker body that you are in love with - the CCM Auto-Trigger kit is a great addition to these pumps. A friend tricked out a Freeflow cocker body with a CCM Auto-Trigger kit and it is a schooove marker indeed.

However, if you have one of the .45 trigger frames and you can find an airsmith to modify your frame, trigger plate, and pump rod - an auto-trigger could be had for much cheaper - say around 50 -70 dollars. Keep your eyes open for this option and it may be worth it to you.

Wrap Up:

I think the three most important upgrades would be a .45 grip, a new bolt, and a perhaps a set of internals. All of these are not necessary but as you can see have their advantages. The rest would be nice - but are not needed.
I hope you got something from this article and feel free to drop me a line with any additions you would like to see.

TF

The Project:

I thought of this project as I was surfing my usual paintball Bulletin Boards (PHOG, MCB, Paintball Scene, SCP, etc.) and kept finding posts that were asking not only how to make a pump out of an old Autococker but what the best pump kit was on the market. I thought it would be beneficial to start collecting pumps and review them one at a time on the same marker. Thus the Comprehensive pump kit project was born.

I e-mailed every pump kit maker I could think of and posted on all the boards listed above that I needed help rounding up pump kits. I got lot’s of replies and offers for help. Some came through with the goods - some did not. For those that did not, I borrowed pump kits where I could and bought kits where I had to. Below you will find every pump kit I have been able to review with the plan of getting to them all.

Every pump kit will have its own separate review with a summary on this page. Enjoy.

The Test Bed:

What you see above is a lightly used 2004 Prostock Autococker purchased used from PB Nation. I paid 50 dollars shipped for this marker and true to form it came in non working order. The Regulator was tightened on so tightly it took vice grips and a strap wrench to get it off. The LPR was over pressurized and the marker had blown hosing because of it. The hammer was cross threaded and the cocking rod was stuck in the hammer due to this. The previous owner did not know he had cross threaded the cocking rod so he tried to re-time the marker to compensate. The ball detent was missing its o-ring and when tightened to the body made the bolt stick. I fixed, re-timed, re-tapped, and cleaned the marker. In about one hour I had it screaming again. She shot at 280 and shot fast.

I am actually very happy that the marker came this way. This is a true test of making a pump out of a used autococker. The condition is probably what the average end user can expect when picking up a marker so cheaply. I stripped her down for her new life as a pump and as a test bed for pumps.

Specifications:

Weight: 3 pounds 2 ounces with pneumatics

2 pounds 13 ounces without pneumatics.

Trigger: Double Trigger Hinge.

Input PSI - Stock: 325 PSI

Turns of IVG at 285 FPS - Stock: 3.5 Turns from flush with body.

Tuning the Marker:

I out an externally adjustable regulator (CCM) on the marker to sweet spot the Prostock. I turned the input PSI down to 200 PSI and turned the IVG in two turns from flush with the body. I shot and turned up the regulator until the pressure plateaued. I marked this PSI with an external gauge. I found that the Prostock will plateau at 250 PSI input and stay that way up until about 325 PSI. I now see why WGP sets their regulators at 325 PSI from the factory - this way you have a lot of range with shootdown under rapid fire without a loss in FPS over the chrono. I reset the factory regulator at 300 PSI output and left it.

I adjusted the cocking lug slightly so that the trigger pull was short and started on my reviews.

Pump Kit Review #1: WGP Sniper Pump Kit:

The Entire Article Can Be Seen Here.

WGP Sniper Pump Kit - Specifications:

Materials:

Pump - Delrin

Pump Guide Rod - Aluminum

Pump Arm - Stainless Steel

Return Spring - Yes.

Weight: 7.7 Ounces

Weight of Marker with Pneumatics: 3 Pounds 2 ounces

Weight of the Marker without Pneumatics: 2 pounds 13 ounces.

Weight of Marker with WGP Sniper Pump Kit Installed: 3 pounds 3 ounces

Pump Handle Length: 5 Inches.

Pump Circumference: 5 3/4 Inches.

Pump Length with Rod: 14 1/2 Inches.

Cost: 30 Shipped

Thumbnail Overview:

This kit is the kit that started it all. This is why I had to review this one first.

Pros:

This pump kit is cheap and very easy to install. You really cannot mess this kit up in any way. The tolerances are such that you can essentially play in the mud and never have a problem with this pump kit. If you have the right barrel - this kit performs just fine.

Cons:

You need to have the right barrel or the pump kit flexes a lot. This flexing leads to pump binding and grinding. The tolerances, materials, and makes for a crude feeling pump stroke in comparison to other kits on the market.

Should You Buy It?

If you are building a pump that you plan on using every now and again take a look at this kit. It is cheap and easy to use. If you have a larger O.D. barrel or barrel kit - this kit will perform just fine for you. Recreational pump users or seekers should pick one of these up. If pump is not for you - you are out very little money.

Pump Kit Review #2 - Team Hooptie Sniper Pump Kit:

The entire article can be seen Here.

Team Hooptie Sniper Pump Kit - Specifications:

Materials:

Pump - Aluminum

Pump Guide Rod - Aluminum

Pump Arm - Aluminum

Return Spring - Yes - Heavy

Weight: 12.70 Ounces

Weight of Marker with Pneumatics: 3 Pounds 2 ounces
Weight of the Marker without Pneumatics: 2 pounds 13 ounces.

Weight of Marker with Hooptie Pump Kit Installed: 3 pounds 91 ounces.

Pump Handle Length: 5 Inches.

Pump Circumference: 5 Inches.

Pump Length with Rod: 14 1/4 Inches.

Cost: 30 Shipped

Thumbnail Overview:

Pros:

This inexpensive kit is essentially a more durable and heavier version of the WGP Pump Kit reviewed above. It is well made and the parts fit together well. It is very easy to install and it sealed just fine. With the proper barrel this kit would work very well. The customer service from Hooptie was also excellent. I would do business with Ed any day.

Cons:

This kit is the heaviest sniper kit reviewed and the return spring is very heavy as well. It makes for a heavy marker and a stiff pump stroke. Given the mill marks and lack of polish on the inside of the pump as well as the outside of the Guide Rod the pump stroke leaves something to be desired. I am sure as it breaks in it will get smoother - but a little polish on these kits would go a long way.

Should You Buy It?

If you are building a pump kit where you plan on using the marker infrequently or you simply want to try out pump play for very little money - this very well be the marker for you. Furthermore, if you ever thought other pump kits were too light, especially the WGP Sniper pump kit, this would be the kit for you.

Pump Kit Review #3: Vendetta Economy Pump Kit:

The entire article can be seen here.

Vendetta Economy Pump Kit - Specifications:

Materials:

Pump - Delrin

Pump Guide Rod - Raw Aluminum

Pump Arm - Stainless Steel

Return Spring - Medium Weight

Weight: 7.4 Ounces

Weight of Marker with Pneumatics: 3 Pounds 2 ounces
Weight of the Marker without Pneumatics: 2 pounds 13 ounces.

Weight of Marker with Vendetta Economy Pump Kit Installed: 3 pounds 4 ounces.

Pump Handle Length: 4 1/2.

Pump Circumference: 4 3/4 Inches.

Pump Length with Rod: 13 3/4 Inches.

Cost: 45 Shipped

Thumbnail Overview:

Pros:

The pump is thick and beefy. It feels good in the hand and the machining is well done. The guide rod is well machined and polished.

The return spring was perfect.

Very smooth and positive in the hand.

Cons:

The pump arm did not seem long enough. I would like to see 1/2 inch more length on the pump rod.

You must have an appropriate barrel installed on your marker or you will get considerable side to side play and possible binding.

I did find that this kit did not fit all barrels and I had to sand down the pump to fit the barrel I wanted the test bed chassis to use.

Expensive for an economy kit.

Should You Buy It?

I think this is a little expensive - but bar the CCM Economy Kit - this is one great little kit. If I could find this pump kit for cheap - say 25 to 30 dollars - I would not hesitate to pick it up. For those that are looking for an economy kit, this one is really good. The CCM kit, due to the guide ring is better, but for those that like a beefy handle and have the right barrel on their sniper, this is a very good kit.

Pump Kit Review #4: CCM Economy Pump Kit with Shorter Pump Handle:

The Full Article Can Be Seen HERE

Materials of Pump Kit:

Pump - Delrin

Pump Guide Rod - Stainless Steel

Guide Ring - Hard Anodized Aluminum

Pump Arm - Stainless Steel

Return Spring - N/A

Weight: 7.25 Ounces

Weight of Marker with Pneumatics: 3 Pounds 2 ounces
Weight of the Marker without Pneumatics: 2 pounds 13 ounces.

Weight of Marker with CCM Basic Pump Kit Installed: 3.2 Pounds

Pump Handle Length: 3 1/2 Inches.

Pump Circumference: 4 3/4 Inches.

Pump Length with Rod: 13 1/2 Inches.

Cost: 50 Shipped

Thumbnail Overview:

Pros:

Made very well this pump kit performs nearly as well as the dual rod ‘Deluxe’ pump kits on the market for about half of the cost. The reason for this performance is the the ingenious guide ring that allows the Pump Rod to stay aligned without the need of a secondary guide rod. The kit is of average weight and seems to add the proper weight to the marker without being too much. The delrin ribs allow for positive grab of the pump with little slippage due to slippery hands. The pump stroke is very smooth and even.

Cons:

The Pump Handle is the smallest I have reviewed and for those that have large hands or like large pump handles you may want to order CCM’s larger Pump Handle.

Should You Buy It?

If you are building a pump that you plan on using every now and again up to frequently and want to save some money - I suggest this kit. As long as you don’t have small hands or don’t mind a smaller pump I don’t see any problems with buying this kit. If you are planning on using this kit every weekend and plan on being a dedicated pump player - you will most likely want to spend a little more money and buy a deluxe pump kit. This little kit performs at 90% of the deluxe kits at 50% of the cost. Not a bad return if you ask me.

Pump Kit Review #5: White Wolf Airsmithing Economy Pump Kit:

The full article can be seen HERE.

White Wolf Economy Pump Kit - Specifications:
Materials:

Pump - Delrin

Pump Guide Rod: Aluminum

Pump Arm - Anodized Aluminum

Return Spring -Yes, Medium to Stiff

Weight: 6 Ounces

Weight of Marker with Pneumatics: 3 Pounds 2 ounces
Weight of the Marker without Pneumatics: 2 pounds 13 ounces.

Weight of Marker with White Wolf Economy Pump Kit (Long Handle) Installed: 3 pounds 2 ounces.
Pump Handle Length: 5 Inches for the larger pump handle (reviewed) 3.5 inches for shorty pump handle.

Pump Circumference: 4 3/4 Inches.

Pump Length with Rod: 14.5 Inches.

Cost: 39.99 for 3.5 inch pump handle 44.99 for 5 inch pump handle plus shipping.

Thumbnail Overview:

Pros:

Beefy pump handle, smooth for an economy pump kit, easy to install, looks good, positive grip and a good pump stroke.

Cons:

A little expensive for an economy pump kit in comparison with other kits (after shipping is included), and the pump rod was too short to install kit properly.

Should you Buy It?

It would take a little work or another pump rod to get this kit to work with most Autococker Bodies - however - once you do the pump kit works very well. I enjoyed this kit and think it would be a great place to start for an economy kit.

Pump Kit Review #6: Vendetta Deluxe Pump Kit:

The full article can be seen HERE.

Vendetta Economy Pump Kit - Specifications:

Materials:

Pump - Delrin

Pump Guide Rods - Larger - Aluminum. Smaller - Stainless Steel
Pump Arm - Stainless Steel

Return Spring - Medium Weight

Weight: 8.1 Ounces

Weight of Marker with Pneumatics: 3 Pounds 2 ounces
Weight of the Marker without Pneumatics: 2 pounds 13 ounces.

Weight of Marker with Vendetta Deluxe Pump Kit Installed: 3 pounds 4 ounces.

Pump Handle Length: 4 1/2.

Pump Circumference: 4 3/4 Inches.

Pump Length with Rod: 14 1/2 Inches.

Cost: 85 Shipped

Thumbnail Overview:

Pros: Slightly lighter than the CCM Deluxe kit and nearly as smooth the Vendetta Deluxe kit was a very positive and smooth operator. The pump gave a very positive feel and the more harsh milling on the pump was much less likely to slip than other pump kits on the market. The anodizing was very even and smooth and the kit overall was nearly flawless.
Cons: The major problem with this kit was that the pump rod did not clear the mounting bracket and caused a lot of drag out of the box. I had to make modification to the pump arm that some buyers would not have the tools or experience to do. This was a major drawback of this kit and must be considered when buying.

Should you buy it?

Once you aware of the possible modification that must be made to this kit - you can be assured that the kit is smooth once this is done. The thinner pump handle with harsher lines might give a user a good option over the smoother CCM deluxe kit. If you like the looks of the Vendetta - give it a try.

Pump Kit Review #7 - CCM Deluxe Pump Kit:

The full article can be seen HERE.

CCM Deluxe Pump Kit - Specifications:

Materials:

Pump - Delrin

Pump Guide Rods - Stainless Steel

Guide Rod Housing - Aluminum

Pump Arm - Stainless Steel

Return Spring - None

Weight: 9.75 Ounces

Weight of Marker with Pneumatics: 3 Pounds 2 ounces
Weight of the Marker without Pneumatics: 2 pounds 13 ounces.

Weight of Marker with CCM Deluxe Pump Kit Installed: 3 pounds 5 ounces.

Pump Handle Length: 5 Inches.

Pump Circumference: 5 Inches.

Pump Length with Rod: 14.5 Inches.

Cost: 75 Shipped

Thumbnail Overview:

Pros:

The smoothest and best built pump kit that has been reviewed thus far. There were no problems with installation and execution. Made the marker feel of a higher quality than it really is. Long pump handle felt nice in the hand and the pump stroke was buttery.

Cons:

No return spring.

Should you buy it?

If you are building a high end pump - this is one of, if not the, best pump kit on the market to do so. The price point is equal to the Vendetta kit but of higher quality. I would not hesitate to buy this kit if your wallet or project calls for it.

Pump Kit Review #8 - White Wolf Airsmithing Deluxe Pump Kit:

Full Article can be seen HERE.

White Wolf Deluxe Pump Kit - Specifications:

Materials:

Pump - Delrin

Pump Guide Rods - Larger Guide Rod - Aluminum / Smaller Guide Rod - Stainless Steel

Guide Rod Housing - Aluminum

Pump Arm - Anodized Aluminum

Return Spring -Yes, Medium to Stiff

Weight: 6.5 Ounces

Weight of Marker with Pneumatics: 3 Pounds 2 ounces
Weight of the Marker without Pneumatics: 2 pounds 13 ounces.

Weight of Marker with White Wolf Deluxe Pump Kit (Long Handle) Installed: 3 pounds 5 ounces.

Pump Handle Length: 5 Inches for the larger pump handle (reviewed) 3.5 inches for shorty pump handle.

Pump Circumference: 4 3/4 Inches.

Pump Length with Rod: 14.5 Inches.

Cost: 65 Shipped

Thumbnail Overview:

Pros: Beefy pump handle, aggressive hand holds, two guide rods, nice front block that aligns well with the body of the marker, pump handle comes in 3.5 inches and 5 inches for different tastes.

Cons:

The boring of the delrin made a rougher pump stroke out of the box than the Vendetta and CCM kits, Polishing was minimalistic, pump rod was not long enough out of the box to pump the marker fully, milling of the window in the bottom of the pump seems incomplete.

Should You Buy It?

I feel that for the money there are better kits on the market. The CCM and Vendetta are smoother and better executed, however, with a little work and a longer pump rod, this kit will work just fine and might fit your looks and style. I would not overlook this kit - but simply think that it is a little dull in comparison.

Pump Kit Review #9 - CCM Auto Trigger Pump Kit - Complete:

This is really not a pump kit - but I felt the need to include the grip and Auto Trigger Cam portion of the Auto-Trigger kit - simply because I have seen many questions concerning this kit. I will only be listing the specifications and review of the grip portion of this kit here. If you want to see the Deluxe Pump Review - see Review #6 above.

Above: Series 5 Basic .45 Frame.

Below: Series 6 .45 Frame (top) and Series 6 86 Degree Frame.

Specifications:Trigger: Delrin with roller bearing installed.

Construction: Aluminum with Stainless Steel screws.
Weight: 8.70 ounces (WGP Two Finger weighs 11.25 ounces and the WGP slider weighs 9.75 ounces.)

Grip Panels: Grip Panels depend on the type and choice selected. .45 grips are stock CCM, .86 Degree can be had in Hogue wrap around or CCM Custom Delrin Panels.

Cost: 70 Dollars

Entire Kit with Deluxe Pump, AT Cam and Arm, and Grip: 130 Dollars.

Thumbnail Overview:

Pros:

The only kit on the market that allows for the installation of an Auto Trigger on the marker. Roller trigger. Delrin trigger. Light and smooth. Good anodizing and quality milling. Multiple attachment points for a bottom line ASA on the Series 6 trigger frame. Under travel screw allows for adjustment of the trigger.
Cons:

No return spring on pump kit. Must have the undertravel screw adjusted properly or the Auto Trigger cam can block the trigger pull when marker is leaned left. The price point is a little high for a grip frame - but the quality of the piece seems to justify it.
Should you buy it?

If you are building a high end pump and / or you need an Auto Trigger I would not hesitate to buy this kit or frame. The CCM kit is high quality and makes a marker feel more expensive than it is. The test bed Prostock felt custom after installing this frame. I would not hesitate to buy this kit if your wallet or project calls for it.

TF