Melissa from CCM notified me via e-mail that she would be shipping me a marker in order to write a manual.  Rod called me, told the basics of the new marker and then told me he was not shipping me a assembled marker – but that I would have to assemble the marker myself.  I thought this was a good idea as the first thing I do when writing a manual or a review is to rip the gun apart – and I would rather not have to break Loc-tite unless I have to.  The marker parts came UPS ground and I was e-mailed a tracking number when it was shipped. It arrived on time and in great condition and well packed.

I quickly opened the box and got to work assembling the marker.  I was sent an entire T2 marker along with multiple feeds (left, right, and center) as well as multiple feed necks (No Rise, No-Pro, and Winchester).

Obviously there was no manual for this marker (update: I have finished this manual and have uploaded it to the manuals section of www.pumpenstein.com) so I was on my own to figure it out.

There was also no parts kit with my marker – but Rod informs me that they will be including a small parts kit as well as a small set of wrenches in order to do basic maintenance on the marker.   In my opinion the parts that should be included in this kit should be:

1) Three Allen Keys 3/16th, 1/8th, 5/32 (These would allow the user to set the reg, adjust the IVG, and tighten the low rise collar.)
2) A T-10 Torx Wrench
3) a spare detent.
4) Reg Seat O-ring
5) Marker oil (either Air Tool Oil, KC Concepts, or some equivalent)
6) Cup Seal and pin

There are few working parts on a pump marker – but this would fix the vast majority of the problems that one might encounter.

Assembling the Marker:

The good news is that the T2 is a very simple marker, simpler than the S6, and assembles with very little issue.  As I was used to the S5, SS25, and S6, assembling the marker took very little time and effort.

Fit and Finish:

The markers fit, polish and finish are unbelievable. Top notch. I am VERY happy with this look. The marker feels smooth and positive in the hand and pumps nearly effortlessly. You can simply rock the marker sharply in your hand and it cocks. All of the parts match perfectly and the ano is deep black.

I set the timing on the back block, set the regulator pressure to 300 PSI, and the I.V.G at 3 turns in from flush with the back of the marker.  The T2 uses a different main spring and thus takes one additional turn to make it shoot at a proper velocity.

One thing that was fixed from the previous model is that the ASA is longer and the fitting can swing under the trigger frame for a smooth direct line of Macro Line to be made.

Parts and pieces:Feed Neck:

Another welcome addition over the SS-25 is that the feedneck is not only removable – but that it is a two part assembly.  There is a mounting adapter that is screwed on first to the top tube and then the feedneck is screwed on to this mounting adapter:

This allows for the adapter to be screwed down with easy access to the screws and very little chance of marring the feedneck with the allen key as was normal on the SS-25 and Series 6 P.

Trigger Frame:

I thought that the S6 frame was light – but the T2 frame is the slim frame that used to be standard on the SS-25.  It is VERY thin and although silly light it may be too thin for the meat fisted.

Here is a comparison shot with the S6 frame on the bottom.  What CCM could make are spacers for those that want a fatter frame.  They could machine them out of pastic like they do their stock grips and skelotonize them so very little weight would be added.  This would allow for some additional versitility.

Chassis:

The chassis is where the major difference is between the S6 and the T2.  CCM made the T2 to have a removable top tube (via two T-10 Torx screws that are recessed into the breach).  This allows for the fast removal of the top tube and maximal versitility for different types of play.

With just a few screws and some time, a person could go from Center Feed to left or right feed.  There was rumors of a Stock Class feed being made to fit the center feed – but Bill (owner of CCM) seems to be waffling on this addition at this point.  People who want the T2 to have a stock class option need to let Bill know.

Half Block:

Of course this top tube is an integral portion of the T2′s true purpose – to be a half block sniper.  The bolt is smaller and the half block designs removes the large back block, long pump rod, and beaver tail.

This takes quite a bit of weight off the marker (about 4 ounces total) and makes the package more compact during play (as the beaver tail is removed) and the chance of getting lens bite is removed (smacking your goggles with the back block during play).

Detent:

The marker comes standard with a single detent installed in the top tube of the T2.  You can see it below to the left of the Torx wrench:

A single detent is more than enough for a pump marker and having a cheap replacement option is great (it takes Spyder Detents).

Bolt:

The bolt, of course, is tiny in comparison to the stock one and have a small slot milled in it for the detent.  This slot, however, is not deep enough to completley miss the detent and I would like to see a few more thousands taken off here.

Another addition to this plain bolt would be the ‘Circle C’ Chipley Logo to match the pump to be placed on the back of the bolt.  Other than the size, this bolt does its job and fits perfectly with the breach and the back block.

Lower Tube Back Cap:

One thing that I have never liked about modified snipers that have been turned into half blocks is that that IVG hangs out like an eye sore and contributes to the marker looking modified and not meant for the purpose it has been pressed in to.  CCM helps this by making the bottom tube especially for this purpose as well as adding a back vanity cap.  This is taken off with a 1/4″ Allen key and it allows for the insertion of a 3/16th wrench that is used to adjust the IVG and thus the velocity.  This is where the T2 shines – well thought out additions to their marker.

Dual Rod and Dual Guides:

The dual guide rod’s of CCM have set them apart from single rod pumps for years.  The addition of the second small rod prevented binding and added to making a pump stroke more smooth.  CCM did away with the second guide rod for the T2, as mentioned above, but have managed to keep all of the smoothness and bind free action of the previous models.  This is due to a dual guide rod hole system that is integral to the bottom tube.  Both pump arms slide through these holes before sliding into two holes in the back block and makes a very positive feeling marker as well as a well put together package.

I would like to see the front single guide rod fluted like on the Series 5 if not for a little weight savings but for the cool factor that the fluting brings to the package.

Auto Trigger Pin:

One change as seen above the the removal of the Auto Trigger screw to attach the Auto Trigger to the Pump Arm.  The T2 uses a small threaded post set in the pump arm and a slot cut in a solid AT arm.  The gain is an even smoother pump and a great looking execution.

Auto Trigger Cam Retaining Pin:

Another cool addition to the grip frame, and a welcome on for those that expereinced a wandering AT Cam and Arm, is the Auto Trigger Cam Retaining Pin.  This pin drops in to the top of the T2′s grip frame, matches with a slot machined into the cam and stops any play the Cam used to have.  It is a replacement to the overly tiny and easy to loose ball and spring that CCM added to their frames sometime last year and works perfectly.  Totally hidden, underappreciated to a new user, but excellent for those familiar with the problem.

Grip’s:

The marker came stock with the Delrin panels installed by Chipley. It is very small in your hand and I replaced them with some Pumpestein clear panels (no we are not selling them – if you have a pair – you earned them) for the photo’s.  If you have larger hands like I do, however, I would like to see CCM offer some skelotonized spacers to fit under a set of panels or a wrap around grip.  I plan on installing a pair of Dye Stickies or Hogue wraparound style grips after fashioning a set of spacers.  This is completely subjective to a persons hands however and the weight savings of the slim panels are nice.

Pump and Pump Arms:

The pump is completely different to match the loss of a pump guide rod that the T2 sports.  A second guide rod is not needed on the T2 as the marker is a dual pump rod design and guide the holes cut in the body prevent any real twisting or binding that might occur.

The pump, although very different looking, is VERY comfortable for small and large hands alike and allows for ambidexterity very nicely.  The more aggressive milling allows for a VERY positive grip and the lack of polish in this portion does not detract from the looks of the T2.  I think this pump is superior to the S5 and S6′s pumps in nearly every way.  The Circle C logo on the front is a nice touch and finishes off a well executed pump.

Overall feel in hand:

Again, if you thought the Series 6 was light – this marker, with 45/4500 and a hopper full of paint comes in under 4 pounds.  It is a full 4 ounces lighter than the S6.  What worried me, in fact, once the marker was together was that the marker would be too light.  One thing I did not like about my Phantom (when in Open Class set up) was that it was too light and moved too much during auto trigger.  The T2 seems not to be ‘too light’ and I was having little problem shooting it with the same accuracy I enjoyed with my Series 6.

In fact, the transition from S6 to T2, for those making it, will be very easy.  It is easier to maneuver than the S6 and not so light that it feels like a totally different gun.

I said when I was reviewing my Series 5, that I have become accustomed to being spoiled by CCM, the T2 confirms it.  There is little to tinker with, little to mess with, and little to worry about when shooting.  It just points and shoots.

There is little more one could ask for when buying a marker.  However, this is how it should be with a marker that has + 500$ price tag.

Looks:

This is, by far, the most subjective portion of this review.  I never liked the ‘tube and grip’ look of the original automag, but appreciated the Spartan feel and sensibility that it brought to the paintball world at that time.  The T2 has very few frills in terms of looks and some have thought, myself included, that it looked a little plain.  I still think that after being used to the scalops and dollops put on the Series 6 that the T2 is a little too Spartan – but on the playing field I would care less.  The no frills approach will appeal to many and the ones who don’t care for the looks may be able to overlook it as I had considering the performance and weight savings.

One thing that does not add to the looks, however, is the fact that CCM has taken the Circle C logo off the front of their on/off as well as taking off the CCM logo from their rails.  I think these little touches always added to the CCM package and would love to see them back.

I spoke to Bill about the lack of milling on the T2.  He told me that with the milling machines they have at CCM / DPM that changing the aesthetics is simply a matter of inputting the appropriate program.  His quote to me was that ‘If we wanted it to look like a Series 6 – that would be little problem – it would just have two tubes in its design.’  I think this means we can look forward to newer series markers in the T2 line that have the performance of the original T2 but have the looks akin to a S6.  Here is to hoping.

Initial Feelings:

I think CCM waited the appropriate amount of time before releasing this marker.  It has the vast majority of the bugs worked out and the only changes I would make are mostly subjective and cosmetic.  I think Rod summed it up best by telling me ‘The last thing we wanted to do was release a new marker that was simply a chopped S6.  We wanted to add some quailty and some new features to the T2.’  I agree, the dual rods, single guide rod, restyled pump, AT connection changes, removable feedneck, bottom tube end cap, hidden detent, and ofcourse the removable top tube make this marker not simply a half blocked S6 – but a marker that is new to the CCM line and new to the paintball world.

Overall, I would give this marker a 9 out of 10 – one point off for being ‘plain’.

After shooting it the first time:

I set the velocity by ear, got some year old paint (it is the first bag I grabbed) and walked out to the neighbors back yard.  They weren’t home… and it was 102 outside – they have more shade.

I was +/- 3 over the Chrono and by the settings I have put in the manual was right around 300 FPS.  I was very happy with the performance of the T2 considering the old paint.  I was hitting a rake handle in their back yard one after another and found the auto trigger very easy to use.  I used the corner of their house as a mock bunker and practiced my snap shooting.  It was VERY easy to snap shoot with and I even found hitting moving targets (I will not mention the source of this moving target) very easy.  Within a hopper or two – there was very little to do.  I could drive nails all day long, but it was getting toward 5 pm and I worried about the neighbors coming home and me having to bunker them.

I was very impressed with the ball to ball accuracy and the performance of the regulator in terms of consistency.

As I degassed the marker I noticed something that was a bit odd – I was able to get two full shots off the marker with it degassed in comparison with the one that I normally get with my Series 6.

A weight comparison with the hammer from the T2 and the Hammer and Cocking rod confirmed that there is a weight difference (about 8 grams lighter for the T2) that may be contributing to this perceived efficiency increase.  I also found out that the T2 uses a slightly lighter main spring because of the space taken up by the lower tube back cap.  This also may mean a more efficient marker.

However, a lot more testing is going to be needed to see if the marker is more efficient and if so, why.

After the first time over a good chrono is a controlled condition:

This marker is every bit as consistent over the chrono with good paint as the S6.  I am usually +/- 3 or less over the Chrono with my markers – and the T2 is right with them.  Simply ball on ball accuracy because of this.

Efficiency:

I did a lot of testing concerning this with a 22 CI tank and my Series 6.  It appears that the T2 is almost 40% more efficient than my S6!  I am not sure why, Bill and Rod are not sure why, but there is a lot more efficiency with the T2.  The hammer is a little lighter and the spring is a lot lighter but the valve and the rest of the bottom tube components are the same.  I think the spring has a LOT to do with the efficiency.  Regardless of its cause the T2 is head and shoulders more efficient than the S6, which was already a decently efficient marker.

Accuracy:

I am not sure what to say here.  If the marker that I shoot is not accurate, I simply don’t shoot it.  This marker is just as accurate as any high end quality marker on the market.  Pump shooters know that pump markers are no more accurate than their semi counter parts – and the T2 is the same.  Very accurate out of the box.

Speed

This marker is just a bit more smooth on the pump stroke than the S6 and because of this higher speeds can be generated by quick hands.  The S6 was already capable of 6-7 balls per second in capable hands and the T2 is no different.  Very fast, a very positive feel, and very smooth.

Field Test – Day One:

Overall impression:
Field Rating:
Longevity Review:

Wear and Tear:
Breaking In:
Last Impressions:

TF

The manuals comes complete with:

1) Schematics for all markers.

2) Safety and Handling

3) A Description of how the markers work

4) How to adjust velocity

5) How to set up and adjust the CCM markers for maximum performance.

6) Cleaning and maintenance of all aspects of the marker.

7) Troubleshooting

8 ) Parts lists

Download the Series 5 Basic and Series 6 Manual

Download the SS-25 and Series 6 Prototype Manual

You can also paste this link into your browser:

http://www.pumpenstein.com/manuals/

If you have any comments or corrections please e-mail them to jmoulenbelt@hotmail.com I will be updating this manual periodically.

TF

Video #1 – Practice – 2007

Song Credits:

Band: Against Me!
Album:The Eternal Cowboy
Song #1 Rice and Beans
Song #2 T.S.R. (this Sh-t Rules)

Video #2 – Practice – 2008

Song Credits:

Band: Finch
Album: What it is to burn
Track: Three simple words

Video #3 – Practice – 2008

Song Credits:

Band: (Forthcoming)

We are still around and practicing harder than ever. Mad props to Keith from Pumpenstein for filming these videos. Check out his site at http://www.hatefulproductions.com/

TF

On page 58 of the June issue of PB2X Keith’s sexy self is shown wrecking shop, in a semi finals game against Chickun Nuggets where he won a one on one and hung the flag with two seconds to spare.  I am glad they got a photo of the game and a picture of Keith not only rocking the new jersey’s but sporting the sponsors stickers.

I am sure he will be signing boobies at a field near you soon.

Pumpenstein traveled to Huntington Beach to battle the best of the pumpers at the NPPL / OSC. The fields, like always were set on the beach and the OSC was relegated to two of the fields on Sunday for all of our prelim, semi’s and finals play.

Despite a limited paint rule and a field designed for 7 man electro play (neither of which are really our style) Pumpensteinwas doing pretty well. We had two close games in the prelims but shrugged those off and came away with narrow victories. We played: Pump and Dump, The Hendshmen (an all star cast put together by Chuck Hendsh), a throw together team of MCB members and others (who played us VERY well), and others that escape my mind right now.

We dropped one game going into the semi’s and were doing pretty well. In the semi’s we played Pumpenstein ball a little more and beat Chickun Nuggets and Turtles (dropping a close game to Blowfish) and advanced to the finals.

The wheels came off in the finals for us as our lack of freestyle play showed. Hitman and Blow fish beat us handily and we could not scrape together a win to save our lives. Despite the poor showing in the finals we thought that 4th out of 28 great teams (really the worlds best pumpers) in a division we have never played in and a style (limited paint) we picked up two months prior was not too bad. We take a lot of pride in our game however and expect a lot out of ourselves. So, I am sure that we will be back at the practice field in the near future to hone our skills and keep striving for that number one spot. That is the Pumpenstein way.

I have way to many parts for the average user however – so I decided to build a list of necessities that should cure all of your CCM needs for your personal markers.

I will break these lists into two categories – the SS25 / Series 6 Prototype list and a second list for the Series 5, Series 5 Basic, and Series 6 markers. Items in italics are not necessary but nice to have.

SS25 / S6P List:

SS25 Valve Body (1)

Valve Body O-Rings (4) N70 015
Valve Plug O-Ring (1)
Spring Detent (For SS25) (1)
Timmy Rubber Detents (For S6P) (2)
Pump Kit O-Rings (2) N70 113
Auto Trigger Screw (1)
Grip Frame Screws (2) be sure to get one for the front and one for the rear – they are different.

IVG O Ring (1) N70 013
Main and Valve Springs (1 Each)
Valve Stem Assembly (1)
Valve Stem o-ring (2) N90 007
Bolt Pin O-Ring (1) N90 009
Hammer Nylon Set Screw (2)
Cocking Rod Bumper (4) these are also used in the hammer
Regulator Half O-ring (1) N70 017
Reg Piston O-Ring (2) N70 113
Regulator Poppit O-ring (2) N90 006
If you use a CCM ASA – Reg ASA o-ring (2) N70 007

Tools needed:

Full set of high quality allen keys
Adjustable Wrench
Needle nose pliers
O-Ring pick
Dow 33 Grease (H8tr sauce is nice too)
KC Concepts Blue oil (other high quality oil works well)
1/2 dowel cut at 1 foot length (this is used to push out your valve body if needed)
Blue and Red Loc-Tite

S5 / S5B / S6

Series 5 Valve Body (1)

Valve Body O-Rings (1) N70 011
Spring Detent (For S5, S5B) (1)
Timmy Rubber Detents (For S6P) (2)
Pump Kit O-Rings (for S5) (2) N70 113
Pump Kit O-Rings (For S6) (2) N70 015
Auto Trigger Screw (1)
Grip Frame Screws (2) be sure to get one for the front and one for the rear – they are different.

IVG O Ring (1) N70 013
Main and Valve Springs (1 Each)
Valve Stem Assembly (1)
Valve Stem o-ring (2) N90 007
Bolt Pin O-Ring (1) N90 009
Hammer Nylon Set Screw (2)
Cocking Rod Bumper (4) these are also used in the hammer
Regulator Half O-ring (1) N70 017
Reg Piston O-Ring (2) N70 113
Regulator Poppit O-ring (2) N90 006
If you use a CCM ASA – Reg ASA o-ring (2) N70 007

Tools Needed:

Full set of high quality allen keys
‘Cocker Valve Removal Tool
Adjustable Wrench
Needle nose pliers
O-Ring pick
Dow 33 Grease (H8tr sauce is nice too)
KC Concepts Blue oil (other high quality oil works well)
Blue and Red Loc-Tite

Here is how this parts kit might look when done:

I think this is complete – this should have you in good condition for anything that the manual says you need to fix. Call CCM for any of these parts – they have a full supply and I am sure will be more than happy to help you. I have also included the o-rings sizes as I knew them (the information was also gleaned from Rod at CCM) – you should be able to find these at a local parts store.

TF

Parts:

The CCM Stock Class Feed comes in five parts:

The Front Cap: A tapped portion that is ramped and forces the ball from the main tube into the chamber. The tap potion accepts a caphead screw (with an ring) that attaches the cap to The Block.

The Block: The block has two holes in the top and two coordinating countersunk holes in the bottom. The bottom portion is chamfered to accept the body of the SS-25 marker. Once the block is attached to the body the cap can be attached to the block. The block is also made so that it can be reversed on the marker in case the owner likes a rock back feed style.

The Tube: The tube along with the block and the cap, to fit 13 balls. It is threaded on both ends to fit into The Block and the End Cap. It is not slotted to allow you to see how much paint is left in the tube. This tube comes in two lengths. 13 balls and 25 balls – the normal 13 ball tube is exeedingly rare – the 25 ball tube is so rare that I have only seen one – the one I own. Bill from CCM was gracious enough to send this one to me.

The End Cap: The end cap is tapped to accept the Tube and it slotted to accept a sock holder (ball retainer). This ball retainer is the standard used on CCI markers as well.

Attaching the CCM Stock Class Feed:

Using a 5/64th Allen key attach the Block (with the tube and end cap if wanted) to the body of the marker. Once attached use the same 5/64th Allen Key to attach the front cap.

Thoughts:

This item is perhaps the simplest portion of the ss25. There is very little to say. It was expensive to machine and perhaps it over complicated and over engineered in its conception. It never caught on on the pump scene too much (mostly because the SS25 was an open class marker by design and was never made to be efficient or run on 12 grams) and so very few of them exist. They are well made and well executed and only perhaps lacking ball slots in making this a perfect piece for the SS25. The only thing that is left is cosmetics – which seem to be in the eye of the beholder.

I am not a huge fan of its looks but it does not offend. I think it looks better than the CCI Stock Class Feed that is often modified to fit the SS25 – but I don’t think it looks great either. Overall, I will not sell this piece for some time to come but I wonder (as I also have a S6P) how much use it will get.

Mafia Stylz’ Speed Cap:

Team Pumpenstein used Speedfeeds on their hoppers at the 2006 NSA Nationals. It seemed the easiest way to reload our hoppers in the format that was used (all reloads had to be done with 10 round tubes). I wrote a review and how – to HERE and thought that I had found the solution to quickly reloading our hoppers. Then we found the Sportshot hopper (which lowered our hopper profiles) modified it and most of the team runs these hoppers now. The problem is that the speedfeed we were using on our previous hoppers on the Sportshot look silly and are unnecessarily large. We took the Speedfeed’s off our hoppers and frankly forgot about it.

Then I saw an ad for a new type of Speedfeed by Mafia Stylz that seemed to be perfect for the Sportshot. It was shorter and seemed to fit the Sportshot – I went to Mafia Stylz website (14.95 plus shipping – paypal’d) and ordered one. In a few days a padded envelope came in the mail with a custom printed label. Inside the package was a printed hang tag with a plastic package attached. The hang tag had directions – the presentation was very professional.

Putting it on the Sport Shot:

Just like my previous article putting a Speed Feed on a SportShot – the collar needed to be modified to fit. I took some measurements and grabbed my Dremel Tool (with fine grit sander barrel) and went to work. A few minutes later, I had it done.

The pictures below shows the before and after. The blue Speed Cap is unmodified and the black one has been modified.

Speed Cap – Front (.300 at the Apex of the crescent in the front – this means taking off .100 in in the front)

Speed Cap – Rear (.360 at the apex of the crescent in the rear – this means taking off .40 in in the rear.)

It really was simple and a little patience makes for an easy modification. Simply cut two crescents out of the cap, one slightly deeper in the front than the one in rear and snap it on.

Preparing the Speed Cap:

The fingers of the Speed Cap come a little stiff. I tested it at this point and the paint from a 80 round tube (Pumpenstein cuts their own length tubes) would not allow the paint to pour in. I sat for just a few minutes and flexed these fingers to loosen them up. I tested another pod, flexed them some more – rinse and repeat. In just a little while I had it right. I could quickly slam a pod into the hopper and all of the paint would pour right in without much an issue (I always had a few balls left – but this seems normal with Speed Feeds – something has to be sacrificed for speed. However, because the paint of a 10 round tube is inserted past the fingers of the Speed Cap – nothing spills.

The Speed Cap sits slightly lower (0.200) than the lid that comes with the Sportshot.

The Speed Cap on the Field:

The first thing I noticed with this Speed Cap is that is maked the hopper louder when you pump and move. Ofcourse, this is to be expected as you are letting the sound escape from the top of the hopper. I didn’t notice this during play, when the adrenaline was pumping, and I don’t think it would ever cost me a game – but it was louder.

I played the entire day with the Speed Cap on my hopper and had no issues. I could reload my hopper without taking my eyes off my target and I could hold my marker on my target and put one ball on him if he looked at me while I was reloading. I simply pulled out a pod, popped the lid, and no-look slammed it on my hopper. A few balls spilled out (if I missed) but almost all of them went into the hopper. I think with a little working in, they would all slide right in with no issue.

About 1/2 way through the day I got hit on my Speed Cap (directly on the front of one of the fingers) – it was about 50 feet away (a blooper over a bunker). I cleaned off the hit and played the rest of the day – without any issue. When I got home I popped off the Speed Cap to do a better cleaning of my marker and hopper when I noticed one of the fingers was broken where the ball had hit it earlier in the day. I remembered seeing a Warranty Section on the Mafia Stylz website and checked it out. It said, I thought, that this was covered so I contacted the maker via e-mail.

The damaged Speed Cap using an Allen Key to show the damage – the Allen Key is propping up the finger – in reality the damage was not noticeable until closely inspected.

He said that he has had a few of these complaints but he feels they are about 3 in 3,000 sales and he would certainly replace the damaged piece at no charge – I simply needed to get back to him with the color I wanted. I e-mailed him the next day to tell him I wanted black and he e-mailed me back and said that he didn’t want to wait so he sent me one of each color – no charge. Three days later all three came. I was VERY pleased with this customer service. I understand that there can be some lemons and that a simple injection molding error can cause weakness in a part.

Day Two:

I played all day at a Pumpenstein practice with three of us running Speed Caps. Beaux and I both took a few hit to our Speed Caps. Beaux took a hit that even flipped the Speed Cap off his hopper. Both us had hits that matched the spot I was hit on the first day at closer range. The Speed Cap held up and worked fine.

I have come to love this thing. I had three times today where I was in close quarters battles or three on ones where the Speed Cap came in very handy. I reloaded quickly and was able to no look fill with my marker up. Seconds mattered at these times and I was happy to have the Speed Cap.

Below is a video by Mafia Stylz showing the Speed Cap in action:

TF

One day I was at Tanks Katy Paintball and I realized I had forgotten my pack. A ref let me borrow his pack. I loved it. I asked where he got it and found that it was a cheapy bought at Gander Mountain. This pack was called a Stranj Extreme pack. It was a 3+2 pack and worked perfectly for my small pods – so I set out to find one.

I found one, pictured above, on e-bay for 13 dollars. I was told that these packs can normally found for about twenty bucks at larger stores. A few weeks later I had it in my hands.

Initial Thoughts:

The pack is of a very similar design than most of the packs of this ilk. It is a weight lifting belt style pack with a rubber portion sewed in the back to prevent the pack from creeping. The pack has two tabs with velcro to tighten the pack and it has three loops to hold pods tight to your back. In addition to these loops are two loops that hold pods in between the three loops for additional pods if you need them.

I use 80 round pods generally and I can slip three of these pods into the pack and leave the two additional loops empty. This pack is not the most durable feeling, but for the price, I can afford to buy three of these packs at the same price I can buy an expensive pack of the same design, the durability didn’t worry me. The pack just seemed made of lighter material in nearly all places. The belt felt thinner, the rubber a little less durable, and so on. It did feel good on my body and the pods felt very tight. A positive side effect of this thinner material was that the pack was light and allowed me to bend and move immediately. I like the feel of this pack.

On the Field:

I played at TKP with the Stranj pack in poor conditions. The ground was sloppy and the field was wet. We had a great practice but this would certainly challenge all of my gear, including my pack. I fell a few times, slid on my pack, and generally put it through its paces. The harness never slipped, never lost a pod, and felt great all day. I really enjoyed the lightness of the pack and the lack of frills. I slid my lanyard squeegee in one of the extra loops and it even held perfectly. Overall I was very pleased with this pack.

After Action Report:

When I got home – I pulled this filthy pack out of my gear back – strapped it back together and tossed it in the washer. This was the second time I have washed this pack and I must say that it has held up wonderfully. Again, I think it will break down faster than more expensive packs, but again, for the price I don’t mind this.

This little cheapy might just become my regular pack. Plus with all the mesh and neato logo’s – I look all agg and stuff.

TF