CCM .45 Frame Disassembly:

Step One: Remove the screw that attaches the Auto Trigger Arm and Cam to the .45 Frame.

Step Two: Remove the grip panels and the two cap head screws that attach the .45 frame to the marker chassis.

Step Three: Remove the Auto Trigger Arm and Cam from the .45 frame. Sometimes you can simply rotate the AT arm to remove it - if it feels stuck you will most likely have to back out the undertravel screw (see below).

Step Four (Series 5 Basic - Pictured): Carefully (the sear is under slight spring tension) remove the sear retention pin. Simply push out the pin using a punch or a small Allen key.

Step Four (Series 6 Frame - Not Pictured): Carefully (the sear is under slight spring tension) remove the sear retention pin. There is a small grub screw to remove and then a small pin can be used to push out the sear retention pin.

The Sear, Sear Retention Pin, and Spring will come out.

Inspect the Sear to see if it has wear where the lug catches. (Notice the slight wear on this sear.)

Step Five: Remove the Trigger Shoulder Bolt and slide the trigger from the frame (shown with the top Allen key). Also remove the Trigger Undertravel Screw (shown with the bottom Allen key) - it must be removed from the top of the frame. Use Blue Loctite on these screws upon reassembly. Be sure not to over tighten the Trigger Shoulder Bolt.

Trigger:

.45 Frame Disassembled:

TF

How to Make Your Own Pressure Testing Kit:

In the article that I wrote concerning how to set up your CCM Marker (This article works for most snipers) I talked about sweet spotting your regulator. Although it is not necessary to have a Pressure Testing Kit for this it is very nice to have one (for this and many other applications) and they are fairly easy to build.

What You Will Need:

(In the picture above these are listed from left to right and top to bottom)

An On / Off Air Source Adapter
A Male to Male 1/8th Inch Adapter (I found this at Home Depot)

A Down Stream Bleed Slide Check

A Female to Female 1/8th Inch Adapter (Home Depot Again)

A Female Quick Disconnect Fitting

Two or Three Male Quick Disconnect Fittings

Two or Three Gauges (depending on your applications)

I use a 0-300 psi gauge for low pressure applications, a 0-600 psi guage for LP tanks and regulators, a 0-1200 gauge for high pressure regulators and HP tanks.

Loc-Tite (Blue)

Appropriate Wrenches to make these connections (I simply used two crescent Wrenches)

Optional a ASA Plug and straight Macro Line Fitting.

Why Have One?

I often check my tanks and in-line regulators to make sure they are working and not creeping. The On-Off is for tanks that have pin valve but not needed for in line regulators. The Down Stream Bleed is used for not only bleeding off excess pressure when the testing is done but also testing for recharge rate and creep. Simply turn on the air and let the gauge settle at the PSI it is set at - then toggle the Down Stream Bleed back and forth and see if the regulator rests quickly or creeps.

When I sweet spot my markers for the proper PSI I check the number on my Pressure gauge and then when I clean or need to rest the marker I simply turn it up to the desired PSI and do not have to go through the process of sweet spotting my regulator again.

Testing your in line regulator is also essential when trying to figure out what is wrong with a marker. If your marker is inconsistent but you know your reg is testing fine - you don’t have to waste time or parts in cleaning and replacing seals (that may be fine) in your in line reg.

This is a simple thing to have in your gear bag - but nice to have when you need it.

Hope this helped.

TF

In this article I will be instructing you on how to set up a CCM marker either out of the box or once you have cleaned it thoroughly. (I have noticed that the new S6’s come set up perfectly out of the box - bar the tweaks mentioned in this article.) This article will work for every CCM pumper I have owned or shot (S5, SS25, S6).

Tools Necessary:

3/16th Allen Key

1/8th Allen Key

Round, Fresh, Consistent Paint

A Barrel that is matched properly to your paint

Chronograph

Pressure Testing Guage (Optional)

The Method:

For those that have a new marker - take it out of the box and start at #3. For those that have already been messing with their marker - start at #1

1) Back out your regulator adjustment screw (3/16th) until the marker starts hissing down the barrel when you pull the trigger. Turn it up until this leak stops. Your marker will most likely be shooting about 230 - 250 FPS.
2) Set Internal Velocity Governor (IVG) until there it is only screwed in two threads. It should look about like this (Back Block, Bolt, and Cocking Rod Removed):

3) Chrono your marker and note the average FPS of perhaps three balls.

4) Turn up your marker by using the regulator until either you achieve 300 FPS in this manner (if this is case skip to Step 7) or the FPS will plateau and after a few more turns starts to decrease again. This is because you have now given the valve too much pressure and it is closing faster than it should.

5) Remember the point where it plateaued and set the reg at this point.
6) Use the IVG to set the FPS the rest of the way if your reg had not reached 300 fps.

This is the most efficient setting for your marker.

7) (Optional) If your reg reached 300 fps before it plateaued you could go to a weaker main spring and re do this procedure in order to have the most efficient marker. A heavier valve spring would accomplish the same thing. However a weaker main spring would lighten your pump stroke. I find the CCM main spring is VERY light and I do not adjust my springs.

I have found that 300 PSI is a great place to start with CCM markers. You can use a Pressure Testing Guage or just start low on the Regulator and turn it up from there. Perhaps even start at 275 psi and make smaller adjustments to the reg to get it to plateau at the highest FPS you can.

I have used this method on all of my CCM’s to great effect. I never use my reg after it is sweet spotted and only use my IVG to set me FPS when needed (which is rare). The CCM reg is great out of the box and when set properly with good paint is VERY consistent.

Additional Adjustments:

Sear / Lug:

Make sure that when setting your Lug you properly set it for auto triggering. To do this properly, adjust the lug so that the marker fires (with the trigger depressed) with a 1/8th inch gap between the back block and the body of the marker. This will allow for proper firing of the marker and good air transfer from the valve to the bolt.

Undertravel Screw:

The undertravel screw (marked by the bottom Allen Key in the picture below) is essentially only there to stop the Auto trigger and Cam from coming out of the grip frame.

Pump the marker until you hear the sear ‘click’. Allow the pump to sit at this point and adjust the undertravel screw until it touches the trigger.

This should set the undertravel screw to the proper position.

Pump Arm:

Ensure that the bolt that attaches the Auto Trigger to the pump arm is perfectly perpendicular to the pump arm or else you will get binding and marring of the Auto Trigger arm.

Cocking Rod:

Set the cocking rod so that when you pump the marker the bolt just clears the chamber (looking down the feedneck) when the marker cocks. In other words, when you hear the click of the sear catching on the lug the bolt should have just cleared the chamber allowing another ball to enter the chamber. If this is not this way, or if the sear catches well beyond this point, adjust the cocking rod properly.

The cocking rod will be loctited. Make sure you have a non marring vice and some heat in order to loosen the set screw that allows you to adjust the cocking rod.

I cannot imagine any other adjustments you would ever need to do to the CCM markers in normal maintenance. This guide should keep your CCM working perfectly.
TF

It becomes necessary from time to time to clean the internals on a CCM regulator. Either a seal has blown, the reg has become erratic, or it has just been a while. This process is not hard and can be done with the rest of the marker remaining untouched. You need a minimal amount of skills to complete this cleaning - so don’t be afraid.

Tools Necessary:

3/16 Allen Key.

Spanner (Crescent Wrench)

Needle Nose Pliers.

High Quality Paintball Oil (I use KC Concepts Blue - Clear is good too)

Q-Tips

Assembled Regulator:

Cleaning the Regulator:

Step One: Turn off air source and make sure all of the air is out of the marker.

Step Two: Take the regulator off the marker and unscrew the halves.

Step Two (Field Disassembly): Simply unscrew the Regulator Bottom. I have always used my hands for this although CCM has slots milled into the bottom for a spanner. (I chose for ease of taking pictures to take the regulator off the marker.)

Step Three: Use your spanner (or 3/8th inch socket) to take out the Regulator Pin retainer.

Step Four: Carefully dump the rest of the pieces from the top of the regulator.

Step Five: Clean (use your q-tips in all the appropriate places on the reg top) and replace the regulator Pin O-Ring if necessary. Apply a light coat of oil to these parts and replace them.

Step Six: Use your Needle nose pliers to pull out the Regulator Piston and O ring (marring the cone portion of the regulator piston is okay - just don’t mar where the regulator pin touches the regulator piston).

Step Seven: Carefully dump out the Spring and Screw to Spring Plate (this may take a few taps on your hand or a non marring surface).

Step Eight: Unscrew the 3/16 screw from the bottom.

(From Left: 3/16^th Adjustment Screw, Regulator Bottom, Screw to Spring Plate(Shown upside down), Spring, Regulator Piston and O-Ring, Regulator Pin Retaining Nut, Regulator Pin O-Ring, Regulator Pin, Regulator Pin Spring, Regulator Top, O-Ring.)

Step Nine: Clean the bottom portion and replace the Regulator piston if necessary. (From the factory they pack this portion in a clear grease. I have found no grease is necessary here and I think a faster recharge rate can be accomplished by simply applying a light coat of KC Concepts oil on all the parts.)

Step Ten: Put the regulator bottom back together and screw in the 3/16th screw flush with the base of the reg.

Step Eleven: Reassemble the two halves of the regulator.

Be sure to check your regulator of a chronograph and reset it to its sweet spot (see appropriate article on this Blog for instructions).

TF

The CCM Series 5 Basic and the CCM Series 6 are great guns but I have noticed a few tweaks that seems necessary. I am hoping this review will bring CCM’s attention to these tweaks and they will set this this way from the factory.

The Problem:

In short - lack of Loc-tite. CCM does not Loc-tite many of its screws and I wish it did. I will walk you through how to do this so that your marker does not malfunction. The most common malfunctions on the first day of play result from screws coming loose. A little Loc-tite will prevent this.

Tools Necessary:

For these adjustments you will need:

1/8th Allen Key (Trigger Shoulder Bolt)

3/32 Allen Key (Trigger Underadjustment Screw)

5/64th Allen Key (Auto Trigger Screws)

Loctite 243 (Blue)

Reference Picture:

Adjustments:

You need to remove the Auto trigger screw (that holds it to the pump arm) and remove the Auto trigger Cam and Arm. While you have this out perform adjustment #1. Loc-tite the screw that holds the Auto Trigger arm to the Cam. Let this dry.

Remove the grip frame from the body.

Remove the Shoulder Bolt that holds the trigger in from the frame.

Remove the sear (being careful not to loose the spring that sits in the grip frame).

Remove the trigger.

Remove the undertavel screw (marked in the picture above with the screw driver) through the top of the grip frame.

Loc-tite this undertravel screw and replace in its lowest setting.

Replace the trigger and shoulder bolt carefully loctiting the shoulder bolt to the frame. (Too much Loc-tite can make a mess here - less is more). Also - don’t over tighten this screw as it will cause the trigger to bind.

Replace the Auto Trigger Cam and Arm and Loc-tite the Auto Trigger screw to the Pump Arm.

Replace the Frame.

Setting the Undertravel Screw:

Pump the marker to is rearmost position - as below:

Holding the pump in the rearmost position adjust the undertravel screw until it touches the trigger.

This should set the undertravel screw to the proper position.

Double check your Sear Setting to make sure the marker is Auto Triggering properly and the trigger is functioning correctly and you are set to go.

TF

The Phantom Vertical Feed body (seen below) has no easy way to fit a hopper on it and keep the hopper low. CCI made a delrin feedneck that slipped over the feed nipple and ran to the hopper but the hopper ended up sitting over three inches above the marker body. To make the hopper sit lower you can use an old 45 degree elbow (or straight ‘elbow’) and modify it to allow the hopper to sit nice and tight on the marker.

Phantom Vertical Body with CCI Adapter:

(Picture borrowed from www.wevopaintball.com)

Tools Needed for Modification:

1) Dremel with drum sander and cutting wheel

2) 300 grit (or finer if desired) sand paper.

3) Old Elbow - one half can be broken. (Often times fields will have many of these laying around - just ask!)

The Modification:

Step One: Wearing the appropriate safety glasses use the dremel cutting disk and cut the elbow in half. You can be much less careful if one half of your elbow is broken but in my case I wanted to get two good adapters out of this elbow so I needed to be careful to cut it straight down the middle. I show in the picture below where to cut.

What the pieces look like once cut:

Step Two: Use your drum sander to get rid of the rough portions left from the cutting. Try to sand the adapter as flat as possible. You want the edge to be parallel with the top portion of the adapter.

Step Three: Sand the adapter further using a flat surface and a piece of sand paper. Start with 200 grit and end with 300+ grit. Make sure the adapter doesn’t rock as you sand it or the edge will end up uneven.

Just about done:

Step Four: Touch up the inside of the adapter with your finest grit sandpaper and clean up the adapter to rid it of any plastic dust and the like.

Here is what it looks like finished and installed on a Sportshot Hopper:

Side View:

Simply slide the hopper with the adapter installed as pictured above onto the feed nipple of the vert feed body and tighten it down. The hopper now sits directly on the body of the marker and feeds perfectly.

Good Luck!

TF

Modifying the Sportshot:After modifying almost thirty of these hoppers I have decided to do another how-to post on what I have learned. This one should be more complete with better pictures. I hope you learn something.

Tools Needed:

1) Safety Glasses

2) Phillips Screwdriver.

3) Sharp Knife.

4) 100 Grit Sandpaper

5) 300 Grit Sandpaper.

6) Dremel Tool (a remote attachment is very handy for this).

7) Sanding and Shaping Dremel attachments (seen below).

The Problem:

Because this hopper was created to feed both .55 and .68 cal rounds it has a sleeve that fits inside the hopper (seen below). This sleeve is a reducer to allow the .55 cal rounds to feed properly. The problem is that when you take this sleeve out it feeds .68 rounds like doo doo. The goal of this tutorial is to remove the ridge that allows the sleeve to snap into place and allow the .68 cal rounds all of us use to feed properly.

Steps to Modifying the Sportshot:

1) Take out the insert inside the hopper. This little trumpet looking piece is inserted in the hopper for it to feed .55 cal rounds. Throw this piece away:

2) Take the Sportshot apart being careful not to loose the screws and lid spring.

3) Use the drum sander attachment (shown above next to the sport shot) and sand away the ridge shown in the picture above. Do not fear being aggressive - I remove quite a bit of material on the first few passes. Be careful not to ruin the seams where the two halves of the hopper fit together. You may have to use your sharp knife to cut off the splays that are created by the melting material being removed.

4) As you can see the ridge that was seen in the unmodified picture is completely removed. Step three however leaves a very rough surface that may hinder the proper feeding of paint into the marker. So, change your dremel attachment to the salmon colored sanding piece and do your best to smooth out these rough spots. When you are done with this step the hopper should look something like this:

5) This is fairly smooth, and if you are careful you should need to do very little hand sanding. When hand sanding use 100 grit sandpaper and simply try to remove the small ridges created by the dremel. Then switch to 300 grit and finish it off. I have found that 300 grit is all the finer one needs to go to make for a smooth feeding hopper. The result looks something like this:

6) Clean the hopper up completely as to not feed any plastic shavings into the marker. The result of a bit more polishing and cleaning is this:

7) Reassemble the Sportshot being sure to correctly install the lid spring. This is not difficult, but be careful. This is a picture of inside of the hopper from the top when finished and reassembled:

This should allow for a very quick and smooth feeding hopper. I find that I can feed, off the gun, about 90 rounds with three small shakes. On the gun I never have to shake my hopper. The rocking motion of the pump is enough for me to keep feeding without a skipped shot all day.

Cutting it Down to Size:

In response to people thinking that the Sportshot sat too high on the marker I had thought long and hard about how to cut it down and save strength of the feedneck. I took to my Dremel to the feedneck in the attempt to retain strength and take off as much height as I could. This is what I have come up with.

As you can see it sits very low on the marker and seems to blend in with the feedneck on the Series 6. How did I do this. I took my time with a grinding wheel of my dremel and took off the outer circumference of the hopper (while retaining an inner diameter needed for the feedneck to grasp without wobble) and went slowly.

You can see a little more clearly from these pictures what words don’t convey.

If you look at the left hand side of this photo you can see that you do not want to go any further than I did. If you go any further you will cut into the channel that allows the hopper halves to clamshell together.

This took over 1/2 inch off the total height and I find that the Sportshot now sits just as high as the Winchester mini hopper. Both measure 4 3/4 inches off the marker (when the Winchester has a snap lid - a common modification) and the Sportshot is only 1 1/2 inches longer (from front to back). I now think the criticism that the Sportshot is too tall is a thing of the past.

Cleaning It Up:

As you can see from the picture above the logo has been taken off the Sportshot to give it a very clean look. This one is by far the simplest mod of this page. You simply use Alcohol (over 50%) and some elbow grease and the Sportshot logo comes right off without leaving any marring of dulling of the hopper surface.

Finally - here is a picture of it on my S6:

Good luck,

TF

Melissa from CCM sent me a mini pump this week to put on my Series 6.

Comparison Picture:

Putting It On:

Three screws (non Loc-tited) take the old pump off and the same three screws put the new mini pump back on. It really is that simple.

A Comparison:

The old full sized pump is 4 inches in length and weighs 4.7 ounces.

The new mini pump is 3.5 inches in length and weighs 3.95 ounces.

Initial Impression:

I really feel little difference between the old pump and the new pump (besides it feeling ’slightly’ smaller). The transition is very seamless.

However, with less of the pump in the view of shooting down the side of the marker I feel like the sight picture is easier to acquire the target and see more of the field at the same time.

On Field Impression:

I have played with this smaller pump for two weeks and I must say - I am not sure if I can get used to it. I am having a tough time getting a rhythm down when Auto Triggering with it. I have swapped it back out and am going to see if it is just my imagination.

More to come.

TF

Tools Needed:

Part Needed:

Compression Hardline Kit (As seen here on a Vertical Adapter Kit):

Before:

After:

Steps to Install Hardline:

1) Take off old macroline and fittings.
2) Take apart CCI compression hardline kit.
3) Install (dry) the two compression elbows.
4) Loose fit the fitting that attaches the verticle adapter (where the 12 gram bucket changers screws in).
5) Line up the hardline and mark it where the hard line should enter the rear elbow (where the valve screws into the body).
6) Use your tape measure to add 3/16ths of an inch to this mark (you need 3/16ths of tubing to enter the rear elbow or else it will be too long). I used my utility knife to score the nickel plating on the hardline.
7) Use your tubing cutter to cut at this mark. (I cut exactly 3/8th’s of an inch off the longer portion of the tubing to make this fit.)
Clean up the brass tubing. I used a piece of fine grit sandpaper for this.
9) Make a dry fit to make sure the tubing has been cut the correct length.
10) You may have to adjust the angle of the hardline to make it sit square on the marker.
11) If everything lines up - use your blue Loc-tite on the fittings and install the hardline.
12) Test for leaks - and barring none - go play!

TF

I received my CCM .45 frame from the factory yesterday (9/7/07) packed very securely with a tracking number and a day early from expected. Total cost was about 87 dollars shipped.

In the package was one .45 frame, CCM .45 grips, two screws to attach the frame, and an unassembled beaver tail.

Fit and Finish:

The frame, although very slightly less polished than my marker, matches perfectly. The ano is the same rich deep black and all the cuts and grooves match perfectly. I was VERY happy about this portion.

Both screws that attach the frame are submerged and leave a VERY smooth look to the frame when attached:

Another awesome touch that I think should be included on EVERY frame is that CCM drilled 5 bottom line holes in the bottom of the frame so that the rail has four setting points. This means a straight rail can act as a drop forward or drop back. Very cool.

As you can see I use the rail in the most far back position. This allows me to get another inch drop back in comparison to the 86 degree frame (the reason I bought the .45). I was extremely happy about this detail.

Putting it on the S6:

I quickly pulled off my old 86 degree frame and started assembling marker in its new configuration. You have to use the old AT arm and cam for the new frame so be sure to take off the screw that attaches this to the pump arm before taking off the frame.

I slipped the AT arm and the two submerged screws into the frame and attached the frame. The marker was still perfectly timed and the trigger was set to my liking - so I left it alone. I attached my rail and ASA and was done. I will need a longer chunk of macroline - but that is to be expected.

This could NOT have been easier. I was expecting some retiming, or resetting of the trigger - but it appears that this is not necessary. I could not have been happier about this. It was ‘plug and play’.

First shots:

I drove tacks. I expected this. The frame makes little difference. I got bored after stacking balls and decided that the frame is about comfort - not accuracy per se’.

Comparisons to 86 degree frame:

The frame appears the same weight (within an ounce) and same basic configurations as the 86 degree frame. The only difference is whether you like the feel of a 86 degree frame or a .45 frame. I, personally, have gotten used to both and don’t feel a massive difference in the realm of comfort.

However, I did notice that the marker was better balanced with paint in it. This is partly because of allowing the tank to be set back a little further on the marker and being counter weighed by the paint in the hopper. I know for certain that it will be more comfortable for me over a long day of paintball because of this.

For those that prefer a 86 degree frame - it will not feel ‘right’. This is subjective.

I did notice that the .45 frame is beefier in the hand. This is merely because the old grips are ‘countersunk’ into the frame and thus are a little thinner. For those with tiny hands - you may like the 86 degree frame better. It wasn’t so fat that I think anyone with average sized hands will think it is too big. For those with bigger hands you will most likely find it more comfortable.

One Small Problem:

I had a problem setting this frame to the proper Auto Trigger Setting. I kept getting skipped shot during auto trigger. Eventually I replaced the sear and the problem went away. It appears that a person at the factory over ground the portion of sear where it engages the lug. This seemed to be an anomaly as I installed the sear my S5 Basic and it did not have the same problem.

Final impressions:

I would give this experience a 9 out of 10. The only thing that could have been easier is for CCM to assemble the beaver tail for me. This is certainly not necessary - and I am sure it is easier for them to ship them (and perhaps safer) unassembled.

Melissa also sent me a dust beaver tail by mistake - so I had to rob the 86 frame. She sent me a new one and it is no big deal. (When are they ever going to get that girl more help, and more pay, and benefits?)

I am VERY happy with this purchase and this product. It has all sorts of little details that makes CCM unique.

TF